WINDOWS 11–UPDATE 11

Windows 11- Local Backup to External Drive  – Refer previous posts.  Most recent https://whysun.com/computers-and-the-internet/windows-11-update-10-local-backup-to-external-drive/

One of my Win 11 computers has been updated to the latest version (of Windows 11) – 22H2. My other one, Microsoft Surface Pro 7, still has not been updated. (The Surface Pro 7 was updated about 2 weeks later.)

The very first thing I did was to see if Settings had been updated to include the backup option to a local external drive.

It has not.

Access to this function remains via (the old) Control Panel / File History .

Windows 11–Update 2–Control Panel–Back up

I have been looking around in the new “Settings” (Formerly “All Settings”) and things have changed a lot in Win 11.

 

CONTROL PANEL

You can still get to the old Control Panel via – Start / All Apps / Windows Tools / Control Panel.

AND I have certainly needed this.

BACK UP

I have an external USB drive set up for backups (plus a system image when I think of it). I also have backups and syncs to One Drive.

I use the 3-2-1 backup method. Three copies of everything – Original on the computer – Second Copy on a local backup – Third Copy “off premises” backup  (On Line/ OneDrive).

Just out of curiosity, I went looking for Backup to make sure my computer was still being backed up to both the USB Drive and One Drive after upgrade to Win 11.

I found a section for Backup in – Settings / Accounts / Windows backup. However,  this seems to only apply to One Drive Backup.

I then went to Settings / System / Storage / Advanced Storage Settings / Backup Options – but this took me to the same One Drive Backup mentioned above.

After that, I tried – Settings / System / Storage / Advanced Storage Settings / Storage used on other drives – and found the USB Backup Drive, but no way to access the Backup functions.

I was able to go to the old Control Panel / File History to ensure that it is still running / Set up/ turn on or off etc. However, there seems to be no equivalent to the Backup section in All Settings on Win 10.

I searched on line and could not find much apart from the suggestion that the old local backup option has been depreciated in favour of online (One Drive) back up.

I hope not.

WINDOWS 11–UPDATE 1 – Right Click Menu

Note 1  I will complete new posts when I come across something of interest with Win 11, rather than add to the original post.

Note 2 My Surface Pro 7 was updated to Win 11 this morning.

RIGHT CLICK

The menu for a right mouse click has changed.

This is the old Win 10 Right Click menu:

Screenshot (1)

This is the new Win 11 menu:

Screenshot 2021-10-30 065437

OR With the new icons on top

Screenshot 2021-10-30 065002

NOTE!  If you click  “Show More Options” you get the old menu

The difference is the use of icons for cut/paste etc.

Hover your mouse over the icon to get the description.

However they are mostly self explanatory. From left to right:

  • Scissors –  Cut (Naturally)
  • Two rectangles that look like 2 pages on top of each other – Copy
  • The third one had be stumped – Rename
  • Arrow thingy – Share (I guessed that)
  • Waste paper basket – Delete (Naturally)

It took me about 2 seconds to work them out apart from the rename icon. I had to hover the mouse to find out what it was.

AND when you cut or copy, an icon comes up later for paste.

WINDOWS 11–Microsoft Official PC Health Check App

Microsoft has released an updated PC Health Check App that advises whether your PC can be updated to Windows 11.

This is the site Upgrade to the New Windows 11 OS | Microsoft

Scroll down and near the bottom there is a section “Check for compatibility”. Click on the link “DOWNLOAD PC HEALTH CHECK APP”

This will download the installer to your Downloads Folder. Install the program in the usual manner.

When the program is installed and is opened, at the top you will see “Introducing Windows 11” and a “Check Now” button to click.

If your PC is compatible, you will see this:

Screenshot 2021-10-02 075830

If not, this is the screen:

Screenshot 2021-10-02 093635

You don’t have to upgrade to Windows 11 but it is a free upgrade and support for Windows 10 will end in October 2025.

UPDATE

I notice that you now get this on – All Settings / Update and Security / Windows Update

Screenshot 2021-10-07 152924

OR THIS (on my NUC with a 7th generation Intel CPU)

Screenshot 2021-10-07 065126

Windows 11 – TPM and Secure Boot

I have 3 computers running Windows 10, and I decided check to see if I can upgrade to Windows 11 when it comes out.

Even though there are third party programs to check on compatibility, I don’t think that Microsoft has issued an official checking program.

Nevertheless, according to Microsoft this is what is needed https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-11-specifications

The main requirements are:

  1. Intel CPU 8th generation or later (Similar requirements apply to other CPU brands)
  2. TPM (Trusted Platform Module) Version 2
  3. Secure Boot

Most recent computers should meet the other requirements (mine certainly do) so I carried checks for items 1,2 &3.

My Surface Pro 7 meets all requirements as does my most recent NUC.

However my original NUC has a 7th generation Core i5 CPU and Secure Boot is not available.You can turn on Secure Boot in UEFI but then the computer won’t boot into Win 10. Unlike my more recent NUC, where I just had to go into UEFI and turn it on.

HOW TO CHECK FOR TPM & SECURE BOOT

Open Command Prompt and

To check TPM, enter :

tpm.msc

This will bring up the TPM Management Screen (if available) which will show the version number.

Then enter the following to check Secure Boot:

msinfo32.exe

This brings up a System Information Summary screen that will show if Secure Boot is available and if it is on.

COMPUTER REFURBISH

Last year when the new video game consoles were announced by Sony and Microsoft, I decided to prepare by replacing my HTPC with a NUC to make room for the PlayStation 5. While the new Xbox will fit in the space occupied by my existing Xbox One X, the PS5 is much larger than the PS4 Pro.

I don’t know why I bothered as, six months later, both the X Box Series X and PS5 are nowhere to be found.

I remember ignoring the pre-order offers from EB Games. I thought that, when they were released, I could just call at any store and pick up one of each. This has not been the case and the lack of availability is more or less the same world-wide.

However, the desire to get the shiny new toys has worn off and I am much less enthusiastic about upgrading. Now I will wait until stock is available. My existing consoles are working just fine. In fact, I might even wait for later models hopefully with more internal storage.

In the meantime, I have been considering what to do with my old HTPC.

It is about 7 years old, and I built it using a SilverStone ML03 HTPC Low Profile case with a mATX Motherboard as well as a reasonable GPU, TV Tuner Card and Sound Card with 5.1 surround output. The Intel CPU was old and did not have integrated graphics.

It was starting to have some problems so instead of getting rid of it, I decided to upgrade the motherboard and CPU and install Linux. I will probably stick with Ubuntu or Mint.

I won’t re- install the TV Tuner and Sound Cards. My new NUC (HTPC) does not have them, and I do not miss them. There is nothing on Broadcast TV that I watch. In any case, all the stations have streaming web sites. Furthermore, I can’t find Linux drivers for the old TV Tuner card. The Optical Drive is Blu-ray, but Ubuntu will not play commercial Blu-ray discs. Again, the web site for the drive offers no software downloads for Linux. My NUC HTPC also has no optical drive and, if I want to play a Blu-ray, I use the Xbox.

I did not want to spend much money, so I bought the cheapest mATX MB and a core i3 CPU (with Graphics). This kept the cost below AUD$270. I also used 2 X 4gb sticks of RAM that I had from another RAM upgrade.

Naturally, things did not go according to plan. The 24-pin power cord from the PSU is too short to reach the MB and there is only one fan header on this low-cost MB. The case has 2 fans. Therefore, I had to buy an extension power cord and a double adaptor for the fans.

This increased the cost to about AUD$300.

I was interested to see how the integrated graphics performed particularly after some minor issues with the NUC. Consequently, I tested it on my large screen 4K HDR TV. It recognises the TV but is best at 1920 X 1080. Whilst not 4K, the picture is fine on the TV and excellent on a normal monitor. (I have also set the NUC to this resolution.)

So, the set-up is a Core i3 with integrated graphics + 8gb RAM on a low price Asrock mATX Motherboard.

I re-used the following items from the previous build + left over RAM –

· PSU (Silverstone SFX 600W);

· Case (Silverstone ML03B);

· Optical Drive (Pioneer BDR-209EBK Blu Ray);

· SSD (OCZ 480GB);

· RAM 2 x 4gb DDR4.

I went with Ubuntu as the OS. (It is the OS I am familiar with but I have a spare SSD that I can swap in to try other distributions – later when I get time.)

It works well, even with a large screen 4K HDR TV as a monitor. A Core i3 with 8gb of memory is more than adequate for a normal computer running Linux.

HEIC / HEIF IMAGE FILES

Apple has been using the HEIC file format for images for a while now, but I recently saved my first one to a Windows PC.

The image was sent iPhone to iPhone via text message and, as I wanted to save it, I forwarded it to my PC via Email. This is the first time I have had to deal with a HEIC image on a PC as, even though my iPhone camera format (camera capture) is set to “High Efficiency”, my iPhone seems to always produce .jpg files.

I tried to open the HEIC file first with Photoshop Elements then Paint.net and then the Win 10 photos App, without success.

I then tried to convert it via an online web site and, not only was it taking a long time, but it crashed before completion. So I went to the Microsoft Store and got the “HEIC to JPEG (FREE)’” App. This App provides 10 conversions a day before you have to pay. Even then, it only costs AUD$3-55.

heic

The App works quickly and easily. In fact, I will buy it. AUD$3-55 is not much.

APPLE MAC – – BIG SUR / TIME MACHINE

My 2014 Mac Book Pro (MBP) has updated to Big Sur without any problems.

APFS FILE SYSTEM AND TIME MACHINE

Thanks to the podcast MacBreak Weekly Episode 740   that referred to an Ars Technica article that suggests that you should re-format your Time Machine drive to the new file system AFPS.

The Ars Technica article explains why you should re-format the drive to AFPS. However, I had a bit trouble in the re-formatting process so I will set out what I did.

When I tried to use Disk Utility on the MBP to erase the Time Machine drive and re-format as AFPS it kept failing and the reason shown was that the drive was in use. This was even after I removed the drive from Time Machine.

So, I attached the drive to a Windows Machine and used Disk Management to delete the partitions and re-format as NTFS. Then I re-attached to the MBP and used Disk Utility to Erase and re-format as AFPS. All went well and I renamed it – Time Machine- !!

I then set up Time Machine again with the re-formatted drive.

BLUETOOTH DRIVER UPDATE / MICROSOFT KEYBOARD PROBLEMS

I have always applied every Windows Update including Optional Driver updates.

clip_image002

clip_image004

However, I have encountered an optional Driver update that caused issues with my Bluetooth keyboard.

The keyboard is a standard Microsoft Bluetooth keyboard and mouse combo that I am using on my HTPC NUC.

The driver update was for the “Intel ® Wireless Bluetooth ® device.

clip_image006

Fortunately, I remembered what drivers had been updated and I was able to roll back the driver as soon as I noticed that the keyboard would not connect automatically at start and would regularly lose the connection, even though it was still noted as “connected” in All Settings. Surprisingly, the mouse was not affected.

As soon as I rolled back the driver the issue was resolved.

clip_image008

In future I think I will wait for driver updates via the normal Windows Update.

Windows 10 Mail App–Problems Update

Refer previous post.

I reset the App (All Settings / Apps / Apps and features / Mail and Calendar / Advanced options / Reset) a bit over 2 weeks ago. It seems to be better. However, sync problems with G Mail occurred again after a couple of days, but I deleted and re-installed G mail and it has worked OK since then.  The only other issue was one time when I forwarded an Email. When I clicked “Forward” the text changed to one letter wide in a long descending column of single letters. However I selected the text and removed the formatting and that fixed it.

This how to remove formatting in Win 10 Mail App. First select the area (highlight) or Ctrl/A to select all and:

2020-04-01_103220_Moment

After the Reset, the App is working well enough. So, I will keep using the App rather than Outlook and post again if there are any more issues.

5th April.  Issues with Gmail are continuing. Gmail stops syncing and the formatting issues seem to also be with Gmail. I give up.