NBN – THOUGHTS AND SUMMARY

Note 1: The previous 3 posts are for people who are still waiting for the NBN particularly in parts of the Sunshine Coast and some Brisbane suburbs. For my friends in North Queensland (Mackay and Cairns) who have had FTTP for years, laugh all you want. I have a long memory, and I am thinking of selling all my extra beds so that you  will have to sleep on the floor next time you want to visit me to escape your “tropical paradise” – you know – where rain is measured in feet/ metres, you can’t swim in the sea due to deadly marine stingers, crocodiles fill the creeks and rivers, there are cyclones AND, most importantly, NO SURF. So There!!  unamused-face_1f612

Note 2: Another thing that I have noted is that out of all of the people I know who have FTTP, none were concerned at all with speed. Not a single one selected the top speed and almost all remained with their existing retailer (usually Telstra). Apart from one, they just went onto the 25Mbps tier with their current provider and this was because it cost about the same and was suggested by the retailer. The 25Mbps speed tier was much faster and provided sufficient bandwidth for a normal family. Most people only want a reliable connection, be able to use a few devices at once and to stream movies.

Telstra later upgraded 25 Mbps customers to the 50Mbps tier and most did not know or care as long as it did not cost more.

The only exception involved a Fixed Wireless connection, and they selected the lowest tier with capped usage. They also decided to retain their copper phone connection which is permitted with Fixed Wireless. They are in line of sight with the transmission tower and could get the top tier but made their choice based on price and previous limited usage patterns.

Naturally, teenage sons with gaming consoles wanted the top speed. However, as they were unable or unwilling to get jobs and pay for it themselves, as far as I know, they were left wanting!

Note 3: Most people understand the motive behind a lot of the negative press coverage and comment about NBN. I for one would love to get FTTP, but wish as I might, it is not going to happen and I am more than happy with my new  FTTN service.

Apart from a few instances, media reports and other complaints are, more often than not, issues caused by the retailer not NBN despite what the misleading headlines might indicate.

The decision to proceed with cheaper alternatives to FTTP is one thing, but clearly not all that important to many people – See Note 2. As I said, I wish I could get FTTP but, out of all the people I know consisting of various age groups, skills, education and incomes from a young Doctor to old retired codgers like me, I am the only one who cares (excluding teenage gamer sons).

Many of the reported problems relate to people not getting the speeds they pay for, but, in almost all cases, this is not NBN. Rather, it is usually caused by retailers not buying sufficient bandwidth to meet demand at peak times. The government regulator has penalized some retailers including Optus and Telstra and, combined with an NBN wholesale price reduction, it is becoming less of an issue. In addition, retailers are now required to provide expected minimum peak hour speeds.

SUMMARY

WARNING DO NOT respond to any phone calls about the NBN. They are SCAMS , particularly the “Robo Call” with a well spoken recorded voice that says it is from the NBN and they have been trying urgently to get in touch. If you don’t press 1 or 2, your NBN will be cut off. Reports say that if you do press 1 or 2 they try to get banking and personal details to steal money and identity.

You contact a retailer –  NBN does NOT contact you.

You will know when NBN connection is near as your letter box will be filled with advertisements from (legitimate) phone and internet retailers.

However, the best thing to do is go to the NBN site and type your address into the “Check your address” section  https://www.nbnco.com.au/connect-home-or-business/check-your-address. (If you don’t have the internet get a friend to do it.)

When the official NBN site says “You’re ready to connect” you make contact with a retailerNEVER the NBN and NEVER talk to someone calling you!

There are any number of retailers listed on the NBN site https://www.nbnco.com.au/connect-home-or-business/check-your-address/choose-a-provider

You can shop around but, if you do, make sure that you are comparing the same plans. For example, with phone calls be sure that all plans are offering the same service. My Telstra phone bundle includes all calls to Australian numbers including mobiles but similar plans from others that I looked at appeared at first to cost $10 per month less. However, after reading the fine print I discovered you need an additional $10 per month calling pack for calls to mobiles which made the prices roughly the same (within $1 per month). An increasing number of people only have mobiles so this is important.

You can, of course get rid of the home phone and rely on your mobile. Plenty of people do but I am in the age group where my friends of similar age still use home phones. I did consider an internet only plan, but some of my mates don’t even have computers let alone mobiles – “A mobile phone ! Why? I already have a phone at home, do I look like a Yuppie?”  contempt

I decided to stay with Telstra as the cost from other major companies is similar, I really don’t have any complaints and I like the new “Smart” modems that have an automatic cut over to the mobile phone system if the NBN lines go down.

Read the fine print and compare Apples to Apples.

As I said, I decided to stay with my current retailer and most people I know have done the same.

If you need a new modem your retailer will let you know, and you usually get one free (or for a small delivery fee) with a contract.

Since FTTP is a thing of the past and Fixed Wireless has limited availability,  with FTTC, FTTB & FTTN, you  can easily self-install. Alternatively, for a fee (which is sometimes refunded if you sign up for a long-term contract), the retailer can send someone out to install it.

Remember, apart from Fixed Wireless, eventually the old system will be cut off and even if you only have a phone and no internet, you still need to go over to NBN. A friend has a phone service only (no internet) and, for less than he was previously paying, he signed up for a phone only plan and it was installed for him with the installation cost refunded for signing up to a 24 month contract.

PHONES AND OTNER INFO.

The main thing to remember is that phone service and internet come in via the modem, so the phone now has to be connected to the modem. If you have existing multiple phone plugs in various rooms, they will not work for your phone. With FTTN and FTTC you will probably be able to plug the modem into any of them but not phones.

Most people simply locate their NBN compatible phone next to or near the modem and plug it in. Alternatively, they buy a phone with wireless extensions. The main base station is located next to the modem and wireless extensions placed around the house. Or, if you don’t mind paying the small cost involved, do what I did and have a new cable installed to run from an existing wall mounted phone (or other convenient location) to an outlet near the modem.

For for devices like fax machines, medical alarms and security alarms etc., you will have to go to the NBN site for instructions. In my case, the security alarm company was on top of the issue and, well before the NBN came anywhere near us, they replaced their old phone line system with a mobile phone-based system.

CONCLUSION

  • Hang up on all phone calls about NBN. They are scams and if not – too bad.
  • The change over is easy and if you don’t think you can do it yourself, the retailers fall over themselves to help.
  • One thing that I and my friends have noticed, is that you can usually get a cheaper deal than before even with your current retailer. It is amazing what a bit of real competition will do!

NBN CONNECTED

I have been connected and well within the time and date advised.

The internet went down for a few minutes, stopped and started a bit then came up on NBN. The phone took about an hour or so  before it started to work but it all works now. I unplugged the phone a couple of times but I think that if I had waited all I needed to do was unplug the cable from the phone outlet to the PSTN input on the modem.

OLD ADSL SPEED CHECK

clip_image002

NEW NBN 50Mbps TIER

clip_image004

and to make sure I did it again on another speed check site.

clip_image006

MAXIMUN LINE SPEED – FROM MODEM

clip_image008

It looks like I can get the top tier of 100 down 40 up. I will think about it and make up my mind whether to  upgrade.

In the meantime I am going to go mad downloading stuff.

Downloaded an iTunes HD movie. Before it took hours – now 20 minutes.

AND  XBox Live “Games with Gold” is next. I don’t like the games in the first half of March – BUT after 16th, I like “Plants Vs Zombies – Garden Warfare 2”.

I have only ever tried to download one game previously and it took 3 days (including pauses every time I wanted to use the internet) – BUT NOW  -WOW!

Next thing is to upgrade Netflix.

NBN Continued

Please refer to my post dated 11th Feb 19 – NBN.

NOTES

(a) NBN abbreviations in order of performance :

  1.   FTTP  – Fibre to the Premises
  2. HFC     – Hybrid Fibre Coaxial                                                                              FTTC    – Fibre to the Curb   (HFC & FTTC are about equal)
  3. FTTB   – Fibre to the Building
  4. FTTN   – Fibre to the Node

(b)  The friend mentioned in the prior NBN post has FTTC, other people I know in North Queensland have FTTP and another friend in Brisbane will be getting HFC.  I will be getting FTTN. After everyone is connected I will try and find out what each of them think about their versions.)

(c)  I looked for and found my “Node”. This is important with FTTN as the further away you are the slower the speed. Using Google maps I have determined that I am 330 metres from the Node.

Therefore I should be able to get the NBN 50 speed tier – (50Mbps down 20Mbps up)  I hope!!

NODE

NBN Continued:

I have been checking the NBN web site daily and at long last on Friday 22nd February my address showed up as “You’re ready to connect”.

Consequently I wasted no time in contacting my phone/internet provider (Telstra) to arrange things. The friend mentioned in my previous post (also with Telstra) made contact by phone but I decided to use their “chat” facility.

The process was straight forward and took about 30 minutes. (It was about the same by phone.)

My identity was confirmed by the usual method of personal information comparison with my account. However, I am very pleased to report that, without asking for my number, they also sent an authentication code to my mobile phone using the number listed on my account.

During the process I was sent an order number that you use to track progress.

Within 2 working days I received a confirmation Email stating that a new modem was on its way (see below it is only a conversion kit – I did not read it correctly) to be delivered in the next couple of days and my NBN connection would go “live” in about a week  – 8 working days from first contact.

This sentence in the email intrigues me:

An NBN technician will complete work in your street, to connect you to the NBN. Your home phone or internet may be briefly disrupted during the work. You won’t need to be home.

My friend who was connected to FTTC, just phoned up and 2 days later when his new modem was delivered, he simply plugged it in and it worked.

I really don’t know how it works but it looks like work has to be done at the NBN Node and / or the Telstra Pillar  for connection via FTTN that is not needed with FTTC. The NBN Nodes seem to be located near existing Telstra Pillars and that is the case with my Node / Telstra Pillar.

I will put this post up now and add to it when I receive the modem conversion kit and again to report when the connection is complete – hopefully with a screen shot of my new very much increased  internet speed.

Here’s hoping things continue to proceed smoothly (touch wood).

28th Feb 2019

I made a mistake and did not read the tracking site correctly. I am not getting a new modem. During the initial contact, I advised that I already had a new Telstra Smart Modem and did not need a new one. They must have listened to what I said and the tracking site was altered to state that I was getting a conversion kit – not a modem.

The conversion kit has arrived and the instructions are easy to understand. The kit only consists of a spare cable and an instruction pamphlet.

I previously engaged a technician to run a new cable from my wall phone to the modem so my phone is already connected to the modem. The Telstra Smart Modem provides for the transition period.  While the current phone/ADSL connection is in place, you simply run a separate cable from the phone outlet on the splitter to a PSTN socket on the modem with the phone connected to the modem. When the NBN is activated, the PSTN cable, and any other phones connected to other outlets, are to be removed. Then, according to the pamphlet, it takes about 5 to 10 minutes for a dial tone.

The pamphlet also confirms that the ADSL line out from a splitter can continue to be used. See previous post. My friend successfully did this and it looks like my external splitter will not have to be removed as long as I continue to use the existing assigned internal  ADSL outlet.

Now I wait for the final step in one week when the connection goes live.

NBN

At long last this part of the state is (slowly) getting connected to the NBN.

I am getting FTTN (Fibre to the Node) and, according to the NBN Web Site, it is due this month. I am hoping that the lines will support the  NBN 50 (50Mbps down) speed which will seem very fast compared to my current top “speed” of 2.0 to  2.5 Mbps down and up is measured in Kilobits.

A friend was lucky enough to get FTTC (Fibre to the Curb)and he got connected last week. FTTC will support the top speed of NBN 100 (100Mbps down) but he opted for NBN 50 which is more than enough for his needs.

He decided to stay with Telstra and contacted them by phone to make the arrangements. He reports that they were quick and efficient and a new “Smart” modem  was delivered within 48 hours. Then it was just a matter of disconnecting the old modem and plugging in the new one.

After changing his WiFi password on his devices it was “all systems go”.  A speed test showed he was getting 45Mbps down and 18 Mbps up.

TELEPHONE

For the record his fairly old phone works after being plugged into the NBN modem. It is not one of those original Telstra Phones that don’t need to be plugged into the power, but still it is probably well over a decade old.

SPLITTERS

He only has one phone line into his house and it has the old “610” type socket.

610 AA

Previously he used a splitter to connect to the RJ11 sockets on his phone and modem.

For the NBN he left the splitter in place and connected the new Smart Modem to the splitter using the ADSL Plug.

splitter

The speed test confirmed that this did not affect performance but it is important not to plug into the “Phone” outlet as, apparently, it is the Splitter’s “Phone” line that has the filter.

This is good to know as I have an outside central splitter that was installed by my Home Alarm company.

The Alarm company has since moved over to the Mobile Phone system but at least I know that I can just keep using the current internet outlet and it won’t be necessary to get the outside splitter removed.

AUDIO BOOKS–UPDATE

Please refer to my previous post “Audio Books”  and in particular comments about transferring from audible.com to audible.com.au.

Since then, Amazon has sent out an email to update information about the matter. As mentioned in my previous post, I had more or less decided to transfer. However, before proceeding I read through their “Help” page.

This sentence caused me to re-think: The following content will transfer to your new Amazon account, as long as the content is available for purchase from the new Amazon website.

So items that I had paid for and are in my library but are not available on the local site would be lost.

It might cost a bit more to stay on the U.S. site and be billed in USD but it is not much.

  • audible.com USD $ 14-95 (AUD $20 ) VS
  • audible.com.au AUD $16-45

Difference is about AUD $3  to $4 per month subject to exchange rate variations– not much. On the other hand I don’t often re-read (listen to) books in my library but it applies to both Audible and Kindle and I have books in both libraries not available on the Aussie site.

In the past, I have often bought additional credits when I wanted more that one audio book in a month. Audible sells 3 credits at a discount of a bit less that USD $12 a credit/book (AUD $16) or a couple of dollars more than  the cost of a paperback.

From now on, I will not buy extra credits but get additional audio books free of charge from my local council library. Dispensing with this cost will more than cover the extra cost in remaining on the U.S. site.

Consequently, I think I will not transfer and wait and see what happens. We might be forced to transfer, or the exchange rate might increase the AUD cost up to a point where I will change my mind.

In the meantime it will be a case of “if in doubt – do nothing”.

AUDIO BOOKS

I have been an Audible subscriber for almost a decade and I really like the audio book format. You can listen while driving or flying on long trips and, even better, while doing boring jobs like mowing the lawn. I almost never use my Kindle.

Nearly all new books are put out in audio at time of publication (or not long after) and an increasing number of older publications are getting the audio treatment.

The only negatives are:

  • An occasional narrator that an individual listener may not like; and
  • Cost – Audio books purchased on an individual basis can be 2 to 3 or more times the cost of a paperback.

However, cost can be less of a problem as there are now many options and, with a bit of planning and a monthly subscription for 1 book a month, you can get audio books for not much more than the cost of a paperback.

For example, Dan Brown’s “Origin” costs:

BIG W PAPERBACKAUD$12

AUDIO BOOKS:

AUDIBLE.COM.AU (Australian site – the U.S. site is no longer available to new customers from Australia.)

Subscription Member – 1 Credit AUD$16.45 (monthly subscription but you can cancel on line at any time)

Non-Members AUD$40.15 – ( members get a 30% discount if you don’t use a credit).

 

iTUNES

AUD$33.99

GOOGLE AUDIO BOOKS

USD$14.95 (AUD$21) (There is now an App for iPhone and iPad / IOS).

Prices vary so it is always a good idea to check.

LOCAL LIBRARY – FREE (Well nothing is “free”, it is paid for by the rate payers of local councils and you usually have to provide proof of a local address to join. Renters are not excluded as part of their rent no doubt pays the rates for the owners.)

There are other options, but I have just covered a few popular sites to give an idea on the cost. See https://www.techradar.com/au/best/the-best-audio-book-sites

https://www.lifehacker.com.au/2015/03/five-best-audiobook-services/

GEO BLOCKING

I agree with the reader comments on the Lifehacker article (see link above) that blocking sales based on the country of the purchaser is a problem. Australians are faced with restrictions resulting from arrangements between publishers and local distributors.

Most audio book companies boast large numbers of audio books but, unless you are in the U.S. or U.K., Geo Blocking is the big problem with these services. As a result, titles available to Australians are usually far fewer. It may not be illegal to use a VPN to get around geo blocking but you can bet that it is a breach of “Terms and Conditions”.

Even with Geo Blocking, there is still plenty of choice from Audible and it is only occasionally that I have not been able to get a particular title. When I first joined Audible, there was no Australian site and sign up was to the main U.S. site but restricted titles were clearly marked as not available. When the Australian site was set up, all new customers were directed to the local site. Existing Australian customers were (and still are) encouraged to migrate to the local site but you could choose to stay with the main U.S. site. That is what I did even though with exchange rate differences, it would be cheaper on the Australian site. The reason I remained with Audible.com was concern that availability on the Australian site would be more restricted. As luck would have it, for a glorious period after the establishment of the .au site, there appeared to be no restrictions on those who remained, and I was able to get a couple of books that had previously been blocked.

Unfortunately, this has now ended and while there is no warning under the title, if you attempt to buy a geo blocked item, you are stopped at the check-out. This seems to have started again about the same time that Amazon (Audible’s owner) was having a “disagreement” with the Australian government about payment of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) (but this is just speculation).

As a result, there is no longer any point in staying with the U.S. site and I will migrate to the Australian site. I have been a little hesitant as, once you migrate, you can’t go back. Although I will have time to think about it as the transfer site has this note: This feature will be temporarily unavailable from June 8th until later in 2018. Please check back here for updates.

Before deciding to migrate to the Audible Australian site, I checked to make sure that “The Great Courses” series is available. It is.

One of the good things about an Audible subscription is that you can cancel (and re-join) on line at any time and you don’t lose titles you have bought (and downloaded.) So, if migrating does not work out, I can cancel and try one of the alternatives like Google.

I have also joined my local Library. Just like paper books, there are limitations on the number of copies of an audiobook title that are available to be borrowed as well as the usual catalogue size limits that all libraries have.

The total size of the audiobook catalogue for my local government council libraries is relatively small with about 8000 audiobooks, and there are about 19000 eBooks for downloading to an E Reader like Kobo, Nook or Sony as well as iPad, iPhone and other similar devices. Amazon Kindle is not yet on this list, but instructions are available on how to sideload on certain Kindles.

In comparison, Audible.com.au says that it has 200000 titles and Audible.com 425000.

The library Apps allow reservations and extensions and the number of audiobooks that you can borrow at one time is more than generous. The time allowed varies from 7 days to 21 days with extensions available.

The library has 3 Apps –

1. Bolinda / Borrow Box

2. Overdrive / Libby

3. RBDigital

All three Apps are needed to access the full range.

The easiest way is to first set up a library account on line with a password and then, with the temporary membership number provided, visit the local library branch with photo ID to get your permanent library card / number. After you get your card, install the Apps on your phone / device.

With “Bolinda / Borrow Box” and “Overdrive / Libby” you sign into the App with your library sign in name (card number) and PW. However, With RBDigital you set up a separate account with RBDigital. During the set up you input the library card number but then sign into the app with the RBDigital account name and PW.

My only concern is that all three Apps seem to drain the battery on the iPhone even after I turned off all of the notification functions. I will just have to remember to close out the Apps after each use. I have just updated to IOS12 and battery problems with Apps are not uncommon after updates. Hopefully this might get fixed.

I have used the Bolinda/Borrow Box App to get an Audiobook and it was easy. When you finish, you just tap the “return” button and it is deleted from your device. (I borrowed “Wake in Fright” by Kenneth Cook. It is an excellent book.)

I used the Overdrive/Libby App for my next one and then will try the RBDigital App. I note that RBDigital has some of the “Richard Sharpe” series by Bernard Cornwell. I will try to remember where I was up to and get one from this excellent series.

Unlike when I first discovered audiobooks, we are now spoiled for choice.

OPERATING SYSTEM UPDATES

 

Win 10 Version 1809

My Windows machines have been updated to Win 10 version 1809. It is a big update made all the more time consuming by my very slow internet combined with the need to download on more than one computer.

While I have not had time to discover all the things that have changed I have to mention two very welcome updates:

No 1 – DELIVERY OPTIMIZATION

See https://privacy.microsoft.com/en-GB/windows-10-windows-update-delivery-optimization

This appears in “All Settings/ Update and Security” and it looks like it is designed for people with multiple Win 10 computers and/or people with slow internet connections. I qualify on both counts.

clip_image002

It will allow updates to be downloaded once and then applied to other computers on the network. This is very welcome, and I have turned it on.

clip_image004

No 2 – RANSOMEWARE PROTECTION

I have this turned on but when it blocks wanted programs and Apps including normal Windows .exe files and Windows Store Apps, sometimes it is hard to find the blocked items to add them to the Allowed Apps list.

With 1809 this is no longer a problem as you get an option to select “Recently Blocked Apps” under “All Settings/ Update and Security /Windows Security/ Virus and Threat Protection/ Ransomware Protection/ Manage ransomware protection / Allow App through controlled folders/ Add Allowed App.”

SNIPPING TOOL

The replacement for “Snipping Tool” called “Snip and Sketch” is now available and there is a prompt to use it when you use Snipping Tool (as I did for the above screen captures). I have started to use it and there are no problems, although I note that at this stage you can only save screen shots as .png files.

No doubt there are plenty of other useful updates and I look forward to Mary Jo and Paul covering it in future Windows Weekly podcasts as well as on their web sites.

MAC OS MOJAVE – VERSION 10.14 AND IOS12

I have also updated my MacBook to Mojave and iPhone and iPad to IOS 12. I have had even less time to look at the changes on this platform. One thing I picked up from MacBreak Weekly is the ability to use the camera on iPad or iPhone (updated to IOS 12) to scan a document or take a picture and have the image immediately available on your Mac (running Mojave) for use and inclusion in say Pages and other Mac programs.

In say Pages click “Insert/ Import from iPhone or iPad” and select either “Take Photo” or “Scan Documents”. If your iPhone/iPad is nearby it will open the camera and after you take a photo, click “Use Photo” and it will appear on your Mac where you have your cursor.

There are plenty of “How To” videos on YouTube. Just search for “Continuity Camera on MacOs Mojave”.

X Box One vs PS4

I have now upgraded both my consoles to the X Box One X and the PS4 Pro.

I have a large screen 4K HDR tv and comparing the latest 4K / HDR games on each console, I can’t see any difference despite the fact that the X Box One X is the more powerful machine.

My opinion remains unchanged, if you want to play on line with your friends, select the console they are using (see post 25/Mar 2015 “Update X Box One and PS4”).

The biggest difference between the consoles is that the X Box One X (and S) will play 4k Blu Ray discs and the PS4 Pro won’t. This is probably less of an issue if you have fast internet, but it remains relevant  for people like me with very limited speed/bandwidth.

SHADOW OF THE TOMB RAIDER

I am currently playing “Shadow of the Tomb Raider” on X Box One X and it is a great game, in my opinion the best Lara Croft game so far. There are more puzzles than  previous Tomb raider games. As well as raiding tombs, Lara has to solve heaps of other challenges and puzzles and not only fight the baddies but also survive attacks by wild animals and deadly piranhas and killer eels.  Also when you finish, a “New Game Plus” option is unlocked so that you retain your skills, weapons upgrades etc, if you want to play it again, which I definitely will. (“The Last of Us” also has a similar option).

One of the best features is the ability to fine tune difficulty levels to suit all skills. Instead of having to set the overall game at Hard/Normal /Easy you can set say “Combat” at hard and “Puzzles” at normal and “Exploration” at easy or any other combination.

It is available on X Box, Play Station and PC and well worth the price.

WIN 10 PC RESET–Surface Pro 4 Screen Flicker

As I have mentioned before, doing a re-install of a computer Operating System (OS) is not the nightmare that it used to be. Both Microsoft and Apple have streamlined the process and in the case of Windows 10, a PC Reset can even be easy particularly if you pre-plan.

A full explanation of all of the Win 10 options can be seen here https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-options

In “All Settings / Update and Security / Recovery / Reset this PC” you are given the choice to “Keep my Files” OR “Remove Everything”. I have never had a reason to use the “Remove Everything” option and in most cases the “Keep my Files” will be all that is needed. This option keeps all your files but removes traditional programs that you have installed including Microsoft Office. It keeps some of the Store Apps but even when these Apps are not put back automatically, when you re-install from the store they come back with your settings intact.

The following are my tips:

Tip No 1 – Use Microsoft Store Apps when you can.

I have learnt, via trial and error, that wherever possible you should get an App from the store rather than installing a program. The only problem here is the lack of choice in the Microsoft Store, BUT things are improving.

For example, you can get iTunes in the store and my advice is to use this version, rather than downloading from Apple. When you do a “PC Reset / Keep my Files” you have to go to the store to re-install, but the store knows that you own the App. Moreover, it re-installs with your settings, even in my case knowing that, with my Surface Pro 4, I have my iTunes library/ Media file on an SD card with an allocated Drive letter inserted in the card slot under the hinge. It also comes back with Playlists, Podcasts etc..

It is the same with things like the Money App that re-install with your personal settings/ Watchlists and so on.

Tip No 2 – Make list of non-store programs to be re-installed including location of install media and / or Web Sites – with Activation Codes.

If you have to download a program from the internet, make sure that you only re-install from the program’s home site. I will not use any of the download sites and if I can’t find the home site I will not install. If you want VLC go to https://www.videolan.org/vlc/

Use Wikipedia to get the URL if you don’t know it.

When you do a PC Reset, Windows provides a list on the Desktop of the programs that it has removed. However, I only put back the essentials like printer software and other programs that I always use and re-install anything else when needed. With my scanner/printer I keep the install .exe files in a folder in my Downloads. These things rarely change. UPDATE – CARE! Don’t store in Downloads as Disk Clean-up now deletes Downloads. 

Tip No 3 – Have your Email Passwords handy.

I use the Mail App and on completion it automatically installs the Email for your Microsoft Account (that you sign into the computer with) IF you have used a Hotmail/Live/Outlook Email for your Microsoft Account. (You can use any Email address for your Microsoft Account and if say you use a G mail address it won’t put back that G Mail.)

You will have to re-input all other Emails. The only one I have any issues with is my Yahoo Email. It comes up with a flag to “Fix” but if you just keep clicking “Fix” and re-inputting the password, it eventually repairs itself. Also, if like me, you have Email on your own Domain name, be sure to keep the server / port details so you don’t have to go looking for them.

Tip No 4 Back Up First

You should be doing a back up in any case so this is a “no brainer”. I just use the inbuilt Win 10 Back Up to an external drive. So, go to All Settings/ Update and Security / Backup (attach your back up drive if applicable) and run a backup FIRST.

Comments

The thing that takes the longest time for me is re-installing Office 365, but this is down to my SLOW internet.

Otherwise it is a simple process made even easier when you pre-plan.

SCREEN FLICKER

I did have, however,  one particular concern with  the Surface Pro 4 (SP4) and it occurred for the first time when I did a PC Reset a couple of days ago. The issue was with “Screen Shake/ Flicker” which, if you search on line, appears to be a problem for a number of SP4 owners.

I was aware that this problem exists, and it apparently is a driver issue for the Display Adaptor. I immediately went to Device Manager/ Display Adaptor and tried to update the driver but got the notification that the most recent driver was installed. I then went to the Intel site and downloaded their driver, but I got the same notification.

I was starting to panic a bit as the flicker was bad enough to almost make the screen un-readable. However, I found this solution on line – and it worked. Go to Device Manager/ Display Adaptor and un-install the Intel HD Graphics 520. Then do a complete shutdown by holding down together the power button and the volume up buttons for 15 seconds. (Turning it off with only the power button does not fully shut it down.) Then when I started it again, it found the “new” hardware (the Intel HD Graphics 520) and installed the driver. This fixed the problem for me at least.

UPDATE – SCREEN FLICKER

This page contains the official Microsoft Instructions for a complete shutdown and restart of Surface products.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/4036280/surface-force-a-shut-down-and-restart-your-surface

Procedure to reinstall Display Adaptor:

Go to Device Manager / Display Adaptor and right mouse on the Intel Display Adaptor and click “Uninstall Device”. (It will default to the Microsoft Basic Display Adaptor)

Complete a hard shutdown and restart as per the Video (40 seconds in for SP4/3 & Surface Book) – Hold down the Power Button for 30 seconds, release and then hold down the Power button and the Volume Up together for 15 seconds.  (Note if you press longer than 15 seconds the UEFI will come up – just click/tap Exit and Restart)

The Windows Hello camera will not work on the restart so press the Space Bar and log in with your PIN.

Go to Device Manager/Display Adaptor/ Microsoft Basic Display Adaptor – Right Mouse / Update Driver. Select the Search Automatically option and download and install the updated Driver. This will take a few minutes.

Device Manager/ Display Adaptor will then show the Intel Adaptor and Windows Hello and everything else will work as per usual.

NOTE! I am beginning to accept opinion that the screen shake problem has more to do with heat than Display Adaptor drivers. Last time it happened it was a hot day (about 37°C) and I had the SP4 located next to a TV that gives off heat. So I detached the keyboard and put the SP4 in the fridge for 15 minutes and the issue went away. Be careful with this and don’t put it in the freezer. The temperature range for SP4 is 0°C/32°F to 35°C/95°F  – So a fridge should be OK for a short period but not a freezer. This is just my opinion so anything you do is at your own risk.

Surface Diagnostic Toolkit

There is a good free “Surface Diagnostic Toolkit” from Microsoft .

I first read about it on thurrott.com , however Paul Thurrott gave it more coverage in the Windows Weekly podcast as his “App Pick of the Week” in Episode no 581 (Starts at about the 1 hour 56 minute mark).

This App is built specifically for Microsoft Surface products and the diagnostic tests it performs are tailored for each type of Surface product.

You can download it from Microsoft here

https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/4037239/surface-fix-common-surface-problems-using-surface-diagnostic-toolkit

However, if you go to the “Surface”  App that comes with all Surface computers, you can get it there.

The Surface App looks like this:

SDiag2

S Diag3

Open the “Your Surface” page from the menu on the left>

S Diag1

Click the link under “SUPPORT  – Surface Diagnostic Toolkit” to download the App and run it.

It does not appear to be  a program that installs traditionally and it looks like you have to download it each time.

 

When you start the App, the first part checks all updates including drivers followed by a reboot. When the computer re-starts, wait a few seconds and a full set of diagnostics will be performed to test all of the things that pertain to your particular type of Surface device – e.g. the tests will be different on a Surface Book than for a Surface Pro as the Surface Book has the detachable keyboard etc..